Monday, 06 September 2010

Beaujolais shakes off nouveau image

FRANCE continues to produce some of the best, and occasionally the worst, wines of the world depending on the weather.

winebt
Moulin-a-vent

Without the right mix of sun and rain, results can be fickle even in the most aristocratic chateaux.

Prayers are often said for divine intervention, bearing in mind the religious origins of French wine-making.

So no wonder French wine lovers are rubbing their hands in thanks right now: 2009 has proved a blessing. The latest harvest is hailed as one of the perfect vintages... prayers have been answered.

Not just in the celebrated regions of Bordeaux, Burgundy and Rhone, eiter, but in Humble Beaujolais, too. Humble maybe in name only, having lived so long in the shadow of mighty Burgundy, its geographic neighbour.

Beaujolais is on the rise, and deservedly so after falling from grace thanks to Beaujolais Nouveau. Good, bad or indifferent, what else can you expect when the grapes are barely off the vine? But Beaujolais Nouveau is purely a commercial ploy and doesn’t each us until November.

The real (gamay) stuff bears the names of Beaujolais Villages and better still from any of the 10 designated crus – in particular look out for Morgan (full bodied King of Beaujolais), Fleurie (The fragrant Queen), the beguiling Julienas and Moulin-a-Vent, the grand master which grows old best.

These have been described as “the corset with bones hidden in its silk” – judge for yourself and you can look beyond the Duboeuf flower label. Louis Jadot is a reliable buy.

You don't have to pay fancy prices for quality Burgundy and Bordeaux even in the perfect 2009 – Beaujolais has never been a better – an easy-drinking delicious red berry fruity reds which suit the pocket all year round and still with substance in the corset!

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